Daytona Street - Custom build of a 2006 Triumph Daytona 675
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Day 3 - 24-12-09 - Right. Lets be positive. Had a good think and I CAN do this. All the wires are colour coded so I should be OK. I need to cut a lot of the wires to the relays and fuse box, move them to their new home and then add in some wire to connect it all back up again. As long as I label every single wire I cut, at each cut end, I should be able to wire things up again. Luckily some of the wires go from relays to fuse box, so I wont need to cut them.

OK, wire cutters in hand and I'm ready to do the first cut. I really don't want to do this. Look stupid, this is why you bought the bike, you wanted a project, so cut the damn wire! There, it's cut, no turning back now. It's a scary feeling as I'm stepping into the unknown. Electrics to me are like magic, I haven't a clue. But I systematically label each wire before cutting, so I know exactly which wire connects with which wire. This will work. The job takes a long time for something so simple, so that's all I get done today. Time to lie down.

Day 4 - 12-1-10 - All the wires to the relays and fuse box are cut now and I have those components fitted in their new home on the top of the air box. Quick check to see that the fuel tank will fit over them. Yup, that's OK. I was pretty confident the fuel tank would be the same between models.

Next I altered the loom so that the wires are all in the same place coming out of the main loom to go to the relays and fuse box.

There is a lambda sensor in the exhaust which is under the engine near the EXUP valve. The wires for this go from near the ECU, to the front of the bike, underneath the headlamps, then run down near the clutch cable to the exhaust. On the Street Triple the wire runs from near the ECU, down the right side of the engine to the exhaust and is about the quarter the length of the routing on the Daytona. Why don't they run it like the Street Triple? It's more direct and uses a quarter of the wire. I haven't shortened the wire yet as I want to get the relays and fuse box connected again, then fire her up to see if she still runs before I make other changes.

I also redirect the wires for the flip switch. I was hoping to leave it in a similar position to where it already lives: just in front of the speedo. But my replacement bikini fairing doesn't have enough room, so it's going to live on the right side of the air box in the same place as the Street Triple.

The barometric sensor can live in my new bikini fairing, also in front of the speedo, so I shouldn't need to alter the wiring for that.

Next I pull the whole loom back through the frame and then push it out of the left side of the headstock, just like the Street Triple. I will need to add wires for the handlebar switches and maybe shorten others. I don't know by how much yet as I can't move forward until I get my handlebar risers and new throttle and clutch cables, so I can get the correct length. I also need to mount the bikini fairing, or at least a temporary lash up, to make sure the handlebars clear it.

The pictures show my cut loom with plenty of idiot proof labels (hopefully!) and the fuse box and relays in their new home on top of the air box.

Well that's enough for today, not that I can do any more until I get the handle bars on. I did get another eBay bargain turn up today. I got a loom from a crashed Daytona for twenty quid. It's a bit damaged at some ends, but I only got it so that I could use exactly the correct coloured and thickness wiring when re-connecting my components.

If you would like to receive an email update when the next instalment is published then please email me at rubyracing@hotmail.co.uk putting "Project Daytona Street Updates" in the subject box. Don't worry I'm not going to spam you, you will only receive an email whenever I update this site.

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